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Enlightenment amid the fumes
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| October 1, 2005 SOMEHOW, there was something seriously wrong. For a moment I felt my life was in danger. It seemed as if every vehicle was rushing towards us. Carbon monoxide suffocating, honking horns deafening, eyes blinded by tears and dust, throat parched, mouth feeling like sandpaper. Perched precariously on the pillion seat of my brother-in-law's motorbike, weaving through the frenetic traffic at breakneck speed, we were making a "pilgrimage" to three of the best-known Hindu and Buddhist temples in Kathmandu. This was no ordinary pilgrimage. A pilgrimage is defined as a "journey to a sacred place or shrine". No mention of motorbikes. Nor the changing times in Nepal. Since 1996 a Maoist insurgency has unsettled the nation and Australia's Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade advises that non-essential travel should be deferred (see www.smarttraveller.gov.au for the latest in travel advisories). Despite this, however, in my experience there is a strong sense of safety and general wellbeing in Kathmandu. But a decrease in tourist numbers has adversely affected the country, which remains heavily reliant on tourism. It has often been remarked that Kathmandu contains more temples than houses. While this might not necessarily be true today, a visit confirms the deep religious spirit in Nepal. The Newars have lived in the valley since the fourth century and developed the Hindu/Buddhist religions. Nepal is the world's only Hindu kingdom, yet the birthplace of Buddha. Today there is mutual respect for both faiths, a truly remarkable quality, and one I was determined to experience first-hand. The first view of Pashupatinath Temple, Nepal's holiest Hindu site, is evident by plumes of smoke from the burning funeral pyres beside the sacred Bagmati River. The square-shaped pagoda with a glinting golden roof, almost 25m high, can only be admired by non-Hindus from the outside. The bridge is the focal point of any visit and the soul of Pashupatinath. There were street vendors, resourceful children playing with bits of driftwood, and old men smoking pipes. But it is the Sadhus, the Hindu holy men, whose presence is synonymous with Pashupatinath Temple. Dedicating their lives to Lord Shiva, they renounce all worldly possessions. Their appearance is striking: long unkempt beards, modest loincloths, faces covered with a mixture of bright yellow and orange ash. Spoiling the scene somewhat, were the tourists chattering loudly and gawking at the bodies burning on the funeral pyres. The multi-sensory stimulation is confronting yet intoxicating. This is the essence of Nepal: the hypnotic peaceful clanging of bells, rich fragrances of incense, wafting aromas of sizzling samosas. Most overpowering of all is the lingering smell of death; burning bodies provide a poignant reminder that the Bagmati River is a place for public cremations, a place where people come to die. Thus, the Bagmati River, like the Ganges in India, has tremendous religious significance. It is a sobering to remember this was where the Nepalese royal family members killed in a 2001 massacre were cremated. Swambuthnath, one of the oldest stupas, has been a sacred site for more than 2000 years. It is affectionately known as the Monkey Temple due to the sprightly population of monkeys. The walk up to the stupa involved an arduous climb of 365 steps – a cardiovascular challenge that has most foreigners (except the diehard mountain climbers) gasping for breath at the top. Disconcertingly a man twice my age overtook me carrying a heavy load yet bounding up the steps effortlessly. We encountered stall owners strategically located so they couldn't be avoided. These women were persistent and didn't take "no" for an answer. Polite and breathless replies of "I already have it" in my best Nepali seemed to work, at least, until we descended and the banter began again. The panoramic view of the city easily compensated for the gruelling ascent. The stupa is 64m in circumference and 10m high. The eyes of Buddha appear on all sides of the stupa as if to scrutinise those who visit. As I was eating lunch, one audacious monkey stole my samosa. Buddha's eyes seemed to look down upon me patronisingly. My brother-in-law laughed and nearly choked on his meal. The elderly man who has passed me on the steps smiled sympathetically and offered me an apple. Nearby I noticed a custom-built slide for the resident monkey population leading to a discoloured pool of water. There were no performances today. It was their lunch break. On our descent, the same group of women were waiting optimistically, this time brandishing a Tibetan singing bowl. The bowl "sings" when a wooden handle is rubbed around the rim, causing a harmonic vibration. It seemed insensitive not to buy it now. A smile signalling relief adorned their faces. The women chatted excitedly, energised by the sale. I felt strangely contented. Our final stop was at Boudhnath Stupa, the spiritual centre for Buddhists and Tibetans. It was obvious we were nearing the Boudha district as the red robes worn by Buddhist monks became more frequent. It was like stepping into a time warp and being thrown back a few centuries to ancient Tibet. The first glimpse of the largest stupa in Nepal (and possibly the world) was incredible. It took 2555 days to build this imposing 38m high, 100m in circumference structure. We walked in a clockwise direction, transfixed by the iconic pair of Buddhist eyes and hundreds of colourful prayer flags fluttering effusively. Climbing on to the stupa provided a 360-degree view of the surrounding area. There was a spiritual presence, a pervading sense of peace that is truly touching and inspiring. Inspecting the nearby shops, I spotted a little girl selling wood chips. "Does it taste good?" I joked in Nepali. "Yes, yes" insisted the child. Her charm won me over. I almost believed it. Far more appealing than woodchips is eating a plate of steaming momos (meat dumplings) washed down with chilled Carlsberg beer to the backdrop of the silhouetted stupa on the sunset. Back on the motorbike, gripping my Tibetan singing bowl tightly, the return journey seemed peaceful. Pollution dissipated, horns blended into the background, I felt alive and radiant. This was my enlightenment. Travelling by motorbike in Kathmandu seemed so easy now. LOWDOWN Capital: Kathmandu Population: 26,469,600 Area: 140,800sq km Languages: Nepali (official), English is widely spoken. Religion: Hinduism (90 per cent), Buddhism (5 per cent), Muslim (3 per cent), other (2 per cent). Timezone: Four hours, 25 minutes behind AEST. Currency: $1 buys 54 rupees. Flights: Thai Airways flies from Brisbane to Kathmandu three times a week (Monday, Wednesday, Friday) with a transit stop in Bangkok. Most major airlines fly into the region. Visas: A single-entry 60-day tourist visa can be obtained from the Royal Nepalese Consulate, Level 7, 344 Queen St, Brisbane, tel: (07) 3220 2007 for $US30. This can be extended once in Nepal for a maximum stay of five months in a calendar year. When to go: The best time to visit is in October/November. This is the start of the dry season; daytime temperatures are pleasant and mountain views are clear. The next best time is at the end of the dry season in March/April. ° Further information www.lonelyplanet.com ° www.welcomenepal.com ° www.visitnepal.com ° www.smarttraveller.gov.au |
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